Thursday, September 1, 2011


Buildings are built right over streets, Ascoli
On Sunday John took us to Ascoli to see the Gabrielli exhibit. He was a19th century painter of the Le Marche area and many of the scenes he painted can be seen today, little changed except for the addition of cars and electric lines.

It kind of cracks me up how the buildings are built right over the streets. You have to remember that this area, like most of Europe has been inhabited since prehistoric times. Most towns have Roman foundations and each generation has built on top of the last. In one street you are likely to see buildings or parts of buildings put up or remodeled in nearly every century. Everywhere you can see traces of Gothic archetecture, some still there, some bricked up.

Gothic window, Ascoli

Modern Italian building consists of pre-cast concrete wall slabs with a little brick work on the corners and around doors and windows. I much prefer the older methods of building with stone.

Carlos Crivelli Alter Piece

While waiting for the Gabrielli exhibit to open we took a walk. In the church of San Emideo is an original Carlos Crivelli alter piece. Fully gilded, egg tempera over gessoed wood panels, it is a beautiful piece.

altar piece closeup
San Emidio was built over a 12-13th century chapel, possibly built by Templars.
13th c. chapel under San Emidio

The crypt under San Emidio

Part of the crypt

Column capital 13th c or earlier
The earlier chapel was partly remodeled and some flashy polished marble columns were put in to replace the older ones. However, most of the capitals were kept and the carving is very fine compared to the later ones.

The early chapel was actually built over the remains of a Roman temple dedicated to Jupiter.

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